A three-week restricted-area trek in far eastern Nepal that reaches both Kanchenjunga base camps, Pangpema in the north and Oktang in the south, joined by the Sele La pass crossing.
The Kanchenjunga Circuit walks around the Nepal side of Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), the third-highest mountain on Earth, in Taplejung district on the borders with Tibet and Sikkim. The usual plan goes up the Tamor and Ghunsa valleys to Pangpema, the North Base Camp at about 5,140 m below the north-west face, returns to the Tibetan-heritage village of Ghunsa, then crosses a chain of high passes known together as the Sele La crossing to Tseram and the Oktang viewpoint above the Yalung glacier, the South Base Camp side.
This page covers the combined circuit and both single-side versions. Walking through Limbu farming villages, cardamom terraces, rhododendron and fir forest and then glacier moraine, the route sees far fewer trekkers than Everest or Annapurna. Teahouses now operate at most overnight stops, but they are basic, and some groups still camp.
Upper Kanchenjunga is a restricted area, so the trek is arranged through a registered agency with a licensed guide, and it needs about three weeks plus travel to and from far eastern Nepal.
Why it is rated challenging
The northern trek follows the same route as days 3 to 12 of the circuit below: road head in the Tamor valley, Amjilosa, Gyabla, Ghunsa, Kambachen and Lhonak, with a day walk to Pangpema (about 5,140 m) and then a return down the same valley. From and back to Taplejung it usually takes about 15 to 19 days including two acclimatisation days.
It is the choice for trekkers who want the close view of Kanchenjunga's north-west face and the Kanchenjunga glacier but prefer not to cross the Sele La passes. Lodges at Lhonak and Pangpema are seasonal and very simple, so check what is open before you go.
The southern trek leaves the road near Yamphudin or Phumphe Danda in the Kabeli valley and climbs through forest via Tortong to Tseram (about 3,870 m), then up the ablation valley of the Yalung glacier to Ramche and the Oktang viewpoint (about 4,700 m) facing the south face of Kanchenjunga. The return is by the same route.
It usually takes about 10 to 14 days from Taplejung and stays below 4,800 m, so it suits trekkers with less time. The long forest climb above Yamphudin is steep and can be muddy, and the lodges between Tortong and Ramche are few.
Most groups go north first, as on this page. Reaching Pangpema early gives several nights at 3,400 to 4,800 m before the Sele La crossing, and the descent to Yamphudin at the end is easier on tired legs than the long climb would be.
Walking the other way puts the passes early in the trip, before trekkers are well acclimatised, and the crossing from Tseram to Selele is a long uphill day. If you choose that direction, add an extra night around Tseram.
Most trekkers fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur, or less often Biratnagar, and drive north on the Mechi Highway through Ilam and Phidim to Phungling, the headquarters town of Taplejung district. The drive takes most of two days with a stop in the tea hills. Small planes to Suketar (Taplejung) airport above Phungling have run irregularly; check the current situation.
From Phungling, jeeps continue on a rough road up the Tamor valley towards Sekathum for the northern side and towards the Kabeli valley for the southern side. Both roads are being extended and are affected by landslides, so the start and end points of the walk change from season to season.
Some trekkers add a crossing from Ghunsa over the Nango La to Olangchung Gola, a Tibetan-heritage trading village, and from there continue west over the Lumba Sambha pass towards the Makalu region. This is the line taken by the Kanchenjunga section of the Great Himalaya Trail and is a camping trek with long days and high passes.
Sleeping altitude for each night. The dashed lines at 3,000 m and 4,000 m mark heights where altitude illness becomes more common. General information only, not medical advice.
Hover, tap or use the arrow keys to see each day. Shaded columns are acclimatisation days.
| Day | Overnight | Sleeping altitude | High point |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Ilam | 1,627 m | - |
| 2 | Phungling | 1,820 m | - |
| 3 | Sekathum | 1,650 m | - |
| 4 | Amjilosa | 2,510 m | - |
| 5 | Gyabla | 2,730 m | - |
| 6 | Ghunsa | 3,475 m | - |
| 7 | Ghunsa (rest) | 3,475 m | - |
| 8 | Kambachen | 4,100 m | - |
| 9 | Kambachen (rest) | 4,100 m | - |
| 10 | Lhonak | 4,785 m | - |
| 11 | Lhonak | 4,785 m | 5,143 m |
| 12 | Ghunsa | 3,475 m | - |
| 13 | Selele | 4,220 m | - |
| 14 | Tseram | 3,870 m | 4,830 m |
| 15 | Tseram | 3,870 m | 4,730 m |
| 16 | Tortong | 2,995 m | - |
| 17 | Yamphudin | 2,080 m | - |
| 18 | Phumphe Danda | 1,858 m | - |
| 19 | Phungling | 1,820 m | - |
| 20 | Bhadrapur | 91 m | - |
A flight of about 45-60 minutes to Bhadrapur in the eastern plains, then about 3-4 hours by road up into the tea gardens of Ilam. Some groups stop at Fikkal or Kanyam instead, or drive straight on to Taplejung in one long day.
Hotel in IlamAbout Ilam
About 6-8 hours on the winding Mechi Highway via Phidim. Phungling, the district headquarters, is where agencies usually complete permit formalities and buy last supplies.
Hotel or lodge in PhunglingAbout Phungling
A rough jeep ride of about 5-7 hours via Mitlung, Chiruwa and Taplethok, where permits are checked at the conservation area entrance. Depending on road conditions, some groups walk part of this stretch.
Teahouse in Sekathum
The trail enters the narrow gorge of the Ghunsa Khola, crossing the river and climbing steeply on exposed sections. The last climb to the small settlement of Amjilosa is long and tiring.
Teahouse in Amjilosa
A gentler day through bamboo, oak and rhododendron forest with waterfalls on the far side of the valley. Gyabla is a small village of Tibetan-heritage families on a shelf above the river.
Teahouse in Gyabla
The valley opens out past the village of Phale, which has a small monastery, into larch and fir forest. Ghunsa is the largest village on the route, with lodges, a health post, a conservation area office and a police checkpoint.
Teahouse in GhunsaAbout Ghunsa
Walk up one of the ridges above the village to gain a few hundred metres and come back down to sleep. Visit the monastery and the village, and check lodge and pass conditions ahead.
Teahouse in GhunsaAbout Ghunsa
Through forest and then open grazing land beside the river, crossing a long landslide slope where rockfall is a risk; walk it steadily and without stopping. Kambachen sits in a wide valley facing the north side of Jannu (Kumbhakarna).
Teahouse in KambachenAbout Kambachen
A second rest day before going above 4,500 m. A short walk up the slopes behind the settlement gives wider views of Jannu and the surrounding glaciers.
Teahouse in KambachenAbout Kambachen
Past the summer grazing ground of Ramtang and along the edge of the Kanchenjunga glacier's moraine to the flat, sandy plain of Lhonak. Lodges here are basic and seasonal.
Teahouse in LhonakAbout Lhonak
An early start along the lateral moraine to Pangpema, the grassy shelf below the north-west face of Kanchenjunga used as the North Base Camp. Return the same way to Lhonak; some trekkers sleep at Pangpema when a lodge is open there.
Teahouse in LhonakAbout Lhonakhigh point Pangpema, 5,143 m
A long descent past Kambachen and back across the landslide slope to Ghunsa. Losing more than 1,300 m in a day helps recovery before the passes.
Teahouse in GhunsaAbout Ghunsa
A steep climb through rhododendron and juniper above Ghunsa to Selele, a small high camp with one or two basic lodges below the passes. Go to bed early for the crossing next day.
Teahouse in Selele
The crux of the circuit: a long traverse over a series of passes, usually named as Sele La or Sinion La, Mirgin La and Sinelapche La, with views back to Makalu and Everest on a clear morning. The trail is easy to lose in cloud or snow, so stay with your guide; then descend steeply to Tseram in the Simbuwa Khola valley.
Teahouse in TseramAbout Tseramhigh point Sinelapche La, 4,830 m
Up the ablation valley beside the Yalung glacier to the meadows of Ramche, then along the moraine to Oktang, a viewpoint with prayer flags facing the south face of Kanchenjunga. Some groups sleep at Ramche and visit Oktang at dawn.
Teahouse in TseramAbout Tseramhigh point Oktang viewpoint, 4,730 m
A steady descent through fir and rhododendron forest along the Simbuwa Khola to the riverside clearing of Tortong. The forest is home to red panda, although sightings are rare.
Teahouse in Tortong
The trail climbs out of the valley over a forested ridge before a long, steep descent to Yamphudin. This is the first permanent village on the southern side, home to Limbu, Sherpa, Rai and Gurung families, and the southern restricted-area checkpoint.
Teahouse or homestay in YamphudinAbout Yamphudin
Down to the Kabeli Khola and across suspension bridges, then up through terraced farmland and Limbu villages to the ridge of Phumphe Danda. Road building in this valley may allow a jeep from earlier in the day.
Teahouse or homestay in Phumphe Danda
A final walk along the ridge to the road head, often around Kande Bhanjyang, then a jeep back to Phungling. The road head moves as new roads are built, so the walking time varies.
Hotel or lodge in PhunglingAbout Phungling
A long drive of about 9-11 hours down the Mechi Highway to the plains, for the flight to Kathmandu the next morning. Keep at least one spare day before any international flight, as delays on these roads are common.
Hotel in Bhadrapur
Stages, times and altitudes vary by operator, weather and pace. Partner agencies confirm the exact plan.
Approximate route drawn through the overnight stops.
Kanchenjunga restricted area permit (Taplejung)Restricted area
Issued by the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu through a registered trekking agency. It covers Phaktanglung Rural Municipality wards 6 and 7, Mikwakhola Rural Municipality ward 5 and Sirijangha Rural Municipality ward 8; the Department lists USD 20 per week for the first four weeks and USD 25 per week after that (read 2026-10-06).
Kanchenjunga Conservation Area entry permitConservation area
Required for the whole route; usually arranged in Kathmandu by your agency and checked at Taplethok and Ghunsa. Check the current fee.
TIMS cardTrekker card
Check whether a TIMS card is currently required in addition to the restricted area permit; agencies arrange it if so.
Restricted area
Restricted-area permits are issued only through a government-registered trekking agency, for trekkers accompanied by a licensed guide; the rules have long required a minimum group of two trekkers, and changes have been reported, so confirm the current rule with the Department of Immigration or a licensed agency.Verify before travel: permit rules and fees change. Checked 2026-10-06 against Department of Immigration, Nepal: trekking route and permit fee. Guide rule: Nepal bans solo trekking for tourists, guides mandatory from April 1 (The National, March 2023).
Nepal trekking permits explainedBest months: Mar-May, Oct-Nov
Forecasts for start (Ilam, 1,627 m), highest overnight (Lhonak, 4,785 m), end (Bhadrapur, 91 m). Mountain weather changes fast; check again on the day.
Forecast for 1,627 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
Forecast for 4,785 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
Forecast for 91 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
On the drive in or out, a night in Ilam allows a walk through the tea estates and views towards the Kanchenjunga range on a clear morning.
Olangchung Gola via the Nango La
A camping extension from Ghunsa to a Tibetan-heritage trading village near the Tibet border, then out down the Tamor valley.
Experienced parties continue west over the Lumba Sambha pass to the Arun valley and the Makalu Barun area, as on the Great Himalaya Trail.
Plan on about 20 to 26 days from Kathmandu for the full circuit with both base camps, including travel to Taplejung and two acclimatisation days. The North Base Camp alone takes about 15 to 19 days from Taplejung and the South Base Camp alone about 10 to 14.
No. Upper Kanchenjunga is a restricted area, so the permit is issued only through a registered agency for trekkers with a licensed guide. Group-size rules have been reported to change, so confirm the current rule before booking.
The North Base Camp at Pangpema, at about 5,140 m, is higher. The usual southern goal, the Oktang viewpoint above the Yalung glacier, is at about 4,700 m.
Yes, there are basic lodges at most overnight stops, including Ghunsa, Kambachen, Lhonak, Selele and Tseram. Upper lodges are seasonal, so some groups still carry tents.
October and November, and from late March to May. Winter snow often closes the Sele La passes, and the monsoon brings leeches and landslides.
A network of high and mid-hill routes about 1,700 km long that crosses Nepal from Kanchenjunga in the east to Humla and the far west, usually walked in sections, or as a through-trek of about four to five months.
A restricted-area teahouse trek around Manaslu (8,163 m), up the Budhi Gandaki gorge through Gurung and Nubri villages, over the Larkya La (about 5,106 m) and down to Dharapani on the Annapurna Circuit.
A long restricted-area camping trek from Juphal past Phoksundo Lake, over the Kang La to Shey Gompa and Saldang, and back via the Jeng La and the Tarap valley.
Kanchenjunga Circuit · 20 days
