A remote camping traverse from Juphal up the Tarap valley to Dho Tarap, east over high passes to Chharka Bhot, and over the Sangda La into Mustang to finish at Jomsom.
- Days
- 16 days
- Maximum altitude
- 5,550 m
- Difficulty
- Challenging
Far West, Dolpo
Upper Dolpo Trek
A long restricted-area camping trek from Juphal past Phoksundo Lake, over the Kang La to Shey Gompa and Saldang, and back via the Jeng La and the Tarap valley.
- Days
- 20-28
- Max altitude
- 5,350 m
- Distance
- -
- Difficulty
- Challenging
- Best months
- May-Oct
- Start / end
- Juphal airport (flight from Nepalgunj) / Juphal airport (flight to Nepalgunj)
- Sleep in
- Camping, Teahouses
- Permits
- Restricted area
Overview
Upper Dolpo is a high, dry, culturally Tibetan region in the north of Dolpa district, partly inside Shey Phoksundo National Park and bordering Tibet. Its villages follow Tibetan Buddhism and Bon, and the region was made widely known by Peter Matthiessen's The Snow Leopard and the film Himalaya. It is a restricted area with an expensive permit, which keeps visitor numbers low.
The loop below flies from Nepalgunj to Juphal, follows the Suli Gad to the turquoise Phoksundo Lake, crosses the Kang La to Shey Gompa, continues over a second pass to Namgung and Saldang, and returns south over the Jeng La to Dho Tarap and down the Tarap Khola to Dunai.
There are few lodges beyond Phoksundo Lake, so this is a fully supported camping trek. Plan for several passes above 5,000 m, long remote stretches and spare days for flights to and from Juphal.
Phoksundo Lake and the village of RingmoShey Gompa below Crystal MountainSaldang and the villages of the Nankhang valleyThe farmed Tarap valley and Dho TarapKang La and Jeng La crossingsYak caravans on the old salt-trade routes
Why it is rated challenging
- Three passes of about 5,000-5,350 m (Kang La, Shey La or Saldang La, Jeng La).
- More than ten consecutive nights above 3,500 m, several above 4,300 m.
- Remote camping with no road and limited rescue access.
- Flights to Juphal are frequently delayed by weather.
Elevation profile
About altitudeSleeping altitude for each night. The dashed lines at 3,000 m and 4,000 m mark heights where altitude illness becomes more common. General information only, not medical advice.
Hover, tap or use the arrow keys to see each day. Shaded columns are acclimatisation days.
Show the profile as a table
| Day | Overnight | Sleeping altitude | High point |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dunai | 2,090 m | - |
| 2 | Chhepka | 2,670 m | - |
| 3 | Rechi | 3,100 m | - |
| 4 | Ringmo | 3,640 m | - |
| 5 | Ringmo (rest) | 3,640 m | - |
| 6 | Phoksundo Khola camp | 3,750 m | - |
| 7 | Kang La high camp | 4,650 m | - |
| 8 | Shey Gompa | 4,340 m | 5,350 m |
| 9 | Shey Gompa (rest) | 4,340 m | - |
| 10 | Namgung | 4,360 m | 5,095 m |
| 11 | Saldang | 3,620 m | - |
| 12 | Sibu | 3,940 m | - |
| 13 | Jeng La Phedi | 4,500 m | - |
| 14 | Tokyu | 4,240 m | 5,090 m |
| 15 | Dho Tarap | 4,080 m | - |
| 16 | Tarap Khola camp | 3,760 m | - |
| 17 | Laisicap | 2,600 m | - |
| 18 | Dunai | 2,090 m | - |
| 19 | Juphal | 2,475 m | - |
| 20 | Nepalgunj | 150 m | - |
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1Fly Nepalgunj to Juphal, walk to Dunaisleep 2,090 m2-3 habout 7 km
An early flight of about 35-45 minutes to Juphal (about 2,475 m), then 2-3 hours down through fields to Dunai on the Thuli Bheri. Allow spare days for flight delays.
Lodge in DunaiAbout Dunai
Day 2Dunai to Chhepkasleep 2,670 m6-7 habout 16 km
Up the Suli Gad gorge through forest of walnut and pine; permits are checked at the Shey Phoksundo National Park office near Sulighat.
Lodge or camp in Chhepka
Day 3Chhepka to Rechisleep 3,100 m5-6 habout 12 km
Along the Phoksundo Khola through forest and past the hamlets of Rechi and Samduwa.
Lodge or camp near Rechi
Day 4Rechi to Ringmo and Phoksundo Lakesleep 3,640 m4-5 habout 7 km
Climb past the high waterfall of the Phoksundo Khola to the first view of the lake, then descend to Ringmo village at its southern end.
Lodge or camp in RingmoAbout Ringmo
Day 5, acclimatisationRest day at Phoksundo Lakesleep 3,640 m2-3 h
Acclimatise, visit the Bon monastery of Tsowa near the shore and walk along the lake.
Lodge or camp in RingmoAbout Ringmo
Day 6Ringmo to Phoksundo Khola campsleep 3,750 m5-6 habout 10 km
Along the exposed trail cut into the cliffs on the west shore of the lake, then up the Phoksundo Khola valley.
Camp by the Phoksundo Khola
Day 7To high camp below the Kang Lasleep 4,650 m6-7 habout 9 km
A steep climb of about 900 m to a camp below the pass; a big gain, so walk slowly and watch for symptoms.
Camp below the Kang La
Day 8Over the Kang La to Shey Gompasleep 4,340 m6-7 habout 10 km
A steep pull to the Kang La, then a long descent to the green valley below Crystal Mountain and Shey Gompa.
Camp at Shey GompaAbout Shey Gompahigh point Kang La, 5,350 m
Day 9, acclimatisationRest day at Shey Gompasleep 4,340 m3-4 h
Visit the monastery and the Tsakang hermitage, and walk part of the pilgrim path around Crystal Mountain.
Camp at Shey GompaAbout Shey Gompa
Day 10Shey Gompa to Namgungsleep 4,360 m6-7 habout 14 km
Over a high pass, called the Shey La, Se La or Saldang La in different sources, to the cliffside monastery of Namgung.
Camp near Namgung monasteryhigh point Shey La (Saldang La), 5,095 m
Day 11Namgung to Saldangsleep 3,620 m3-4 habout 9 km
A shorter day down the valley to Saldang, the largest village of Upper Dolpo, spread across a high slope above the Nankhang valley.
Camp at SaldangAbout Saldang
Day 12Saldang to Sibusleep 3,940 m6-7 habout 16 km
Through the hamlets of the Nankhang valley, past chortens, mani walls and fields, with yak caravans common in autumn.
Camp near Sibu
Day 13Sibu to Jeng La Phedisleep 4,500 m5-6 habout 13 km
A gradual climb up a side valley through high pasture to a camp at the foot of the pass.
Camp below the Jeng La
Day 14Over the Jeng La to Tokyusleep 4,240 m6-7 habout 15 km
Climb to the Jeng La with views of the Dhaulagiri range to the south, then descend into the upper Tarap valley.
Camp at Tokyuhigh point Jeng La, 5,090 m
Day 15Tokyu to Dho Tarapsleep 4,080 m2-3 habout 5 km
A short walk down the wide, farmed Tarap valley past monasteries to Dho, leaving time to explore.
Camp or homestay in Dho TarapAbout Dho Tarap
Day 16Dho Tarap to Tarap Khola campsleep 3,760 m5-6 habout 15 km
Down the valley through juniper and grassland as it narrows towards the gorge.
Camp by the Tarap Khola
Day 17Tarap Khola camp to Laisicapsleep 2,600 m7-8 habout 22 km
Through the narrow Tarap Khola gorge on a trail cut into the cliffs, with bridges and some exposed sections, descending more than 1,000 m.
Camp near Laisicap
Day 18Laisicap to Dunaisleep 2,090 m6-7 habout 23 km
Along the Thuli Bheri valley past Tarakot, an old fortified village, to Dunai.
Lodge in DunaiAbout Dunai
Day 19Dunai to Juphalsleep 2,475 m3 habout 10 km
A climb of about 400 m back to Juphal for the morning flight.
Lodge in Juphal
Day 20, travel dayFly Juphal to Nepalgunjsleep 150 m
Morning flight to Nepalgunj and connection to Kathmandu. Cloud often delays flights; keep spare days.
Hotel in Nepalgunj
Stages, times and altitudes vary by operator, weather and pace. Partner agencies confirm the exact plan.
Route map
Approximate route drawn through the overnight stops.
Permits
Upper Dolpa restricted-area permitRestricted area
Issued by the Department of Immigration through a registered agency. Its fee table lists Upper Dolpa (Dolpo Buddha wards 4-6, Shey Phoksundo wards 1-7, Charka Tangsong wards 1-6) at USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per person per day after that.
Lower Dolpa restricted-area permitRestricted area
For the lower sections (Thuli Bheri, the Tarap valley and the Phoksundo approach). The fee table lists USD 20 per person per week and USD 5 per day beyond a week.
Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permitNational park
Paid at the park office or through your agency; checked on the trail near Sulighat.
TIMS cardTrekker card
Check whether a TIMS card is currently required; since 2023 it has been issued through registered trekking agencies.
Restricted area
Restricted-area permits are issued only through a government-registered trekking agency, for trekkers accompanied by a licensed guide; the rules have long required a minimum group of two trekkers, and changes have been reported, so confirm the current rule with the Department of Immigration or a licensed agency.Verify before travel: permit rules and fees change. Checked 2026-10-06 against Department of Immigration, Nepal: Trekking Route and Permit Fee. Guide rule: The National: Nepal bans solo trekking for tourists, guides mandatory from April 1 (March 2023).
Nepal trekking permits explainedWhen to go
Best months: May-Oct
- Autumn (Sep-Nov)
- September and October are clear and dry; by November the high passes are cold and snow becomes likely.
- Winter (Dec-Feb)
- December to February is very cold and the high passes are usually snowbound; trekking is not practical.
- Spring (Mar-May)
- Late April and May are possible, but snow can linger on the passes until late spring.
- Monsoon (Jun-Aug)
- June to August is a good season in this rain-shadow area, but flights to Juphal are often delayed by cloud and lower trails can be wet.
Getting there and back
Getting to Dunai, by mode
Nearest hub: Nepalgunj. Times are typical ranges, not schedules, and vary with roadworks, weather and the season.
By airfrom Nepalgunjabout 0.6-0.8 hDolpa (Juphal)often delayed or cancelled by weather
Small aircraft from Nepalgunj serve Dolpa (Juphal) airport at about 2,500 m, on a 663 m asphalt strip. Nepalgunj is the hub for the remote western airstrips, and the Juphal leg is weather-dependent.
When to set off: Morning flights only; most travellers fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj the day before and allow spare days.
By car or jeepfrom Nepalgunj
Rough seasonal roads reach Dunai from the lowlands via Jajarkot or Rukum; they are long and unreliable and no sourced hour band was found.
Road: Long rough mountain road, 4WD only, with an alignment and usable season that change from year to year.
On footfrom Juphalabout 2-3 hAbout 2-3 hours from the Juphal airstrip, mostly downhill, dropping roughly 400 m to the Thuli Bheri.
The standard arrival: fly to Juphal at about 2,500 m and walk down to Dunai on the river.
Where people go next
- Dho Tarapon footUp the Tarap Khola via Tarakot, Laini and Nawarpani, usually four days.
- Phoksundo Lakeon footUp the Suli Gad to Ringmo, usually 2-3 days.
- Dolpoon footGateway to the wider Dolpo region and its upper valleys.
Seasonal risks
Typical seasonal exposure along the route, merged from the stops that have a place page. Seasonal patterns only, never conditions today.
Otherhigh in a typical yearJun-Sep
Access, not rain, is the monsoon problem: cloud on the Nepalgunj-Juphal leg frequently delays or cancels the flight into Dolpa, and spare days at either end are normal.
Recorded for Dolpo, Dunai, Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and 2 more. Dolpa (Juphal) Airport, Wikipedia
Altitudehigh in a typical yearAll year
Juphal is about 2,500 m, Phoksundo Lake about 3,600 m, the Upper Dolpo villages 3,800-4,200 m and the passes above 5,000 m. Altitude sickness becomes common above roughly 2,500 m. General information, not medical advice: gain height slowly (a common guideline is no more than about 300 m a day in sleeping altitude once high), learn the symptoms, descend if they get worse, see a doctor before travelling, and carry insurance that covers helicopter evacuation.
Recorded for Dolpo, Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa, Saldang and 1 more. Altitude sickness, Wikipedia
Snowhigh in a typical yearNov-Apr
The Upper Dolpo routes cross passes above 5,000 m; these hold snow from late autumn into spring, and in deep winter they are not normally crossed.
Recorded for Dolpo, Dunai, Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and 2 more. Dolpo, Wikipedia
Coldhigh in a typical yearNov-Mar
Winter at 3,800-4,200 m in Dolpo is severe and many families move with their animals to lower ground, so shelter and food along the route thin out.
Recorded for Dolpo, Dunai, Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and 2 more. Dolpo, Wikipedia
Road blockageshigh in a typical yearJun-Sep
The rough roads reaching Dunai from the south are long and unreliable, and monsoon rain is when blockages are most likely; the flight to Juphal is the normal way in.
Recorded for Dolpo, Dunai. Dolpa (Juphal) Airport, Wikipedia
Landslidesmoderate in a typical yearJun-Sep
Dolpo is a trans-Himalayan rain-shadow region with under 500 mm of precipitation a year, so monsoon rain and landslide exposure in the upper valleys is low; the lower Suli Gad and Bheri trails are wetter.
Recorded for Dolpo, Dunai, Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and 2 more. Dolpo, Wikipedia
River crossingsmoderate in a typical yearJun-Sep
The Suli Gad trail up from Dunai crosses and recrosses the river on bridges in a steep gorge, and flows are highest in the monsoon.
Recorded for Phoksundo Lake, Dho Tarap. Shey Phoksundo National Park, Wikipedia
Check current conditions before you travel
Nothing here describes the Upper Dolpo Trek today. Trail, road, pass and flight conditions change with the weather and with roadworks. Check the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology, the Nepal Disaster Risk Reduction Portal and the local authority or your licensed operator before and during the trek.
Weather on the route
Forecasts for start (Dunai, 2,090 m), highest overnight (Kang La high camp, 4,650 m), end (Nepalgunj, 150 m). Mountain weather changes fast; check again on the day.
Weather in Dunai (start)
Forecast for 2,090 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
Weather in Kang La high camp (highest overnight)
Forecast for 4,650 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
Weather in Nepalgunj (end)
Forecast for 150 m. Conditions change fast in the mountains.
Weather data: MET Norway, licensed CC BY 4.0. A forecast, not a guarantee.
Safety
Above about 3,000 m, a widely used guideline is to increase your sleeping altitude by no more than about 500 m a day and to take an extra night at the same altitude every 3 to 4 days (CDC Yellow Book; Wilderness Medical Society). This is general information, not medical advice.
Know the signs of acute mountain sickness: headache with nausea, loss of appetite, unusual tiredness, dizziness or poor sleep. Do not go higher with symptoms, and go down if they get worse. Confusion, stumbling, or breathlessness at rest are emergencies: descend at once and get help.
Some days involve gains of about 900 m at altitude (to the Kang La high camp); walk slowly, and build in an extra night if anyone feels unwell.
The trail along the west shore of Phoksundo Lake and the Tarap Khola gorge are narrow and exposed; take care in wind, rain or snow.
There is no road and little mobile signal beyond Phoksundo; your team should carry a satellite communicator and first aid, and evacuation depends on helicopter flying weather.
Buy travel insurance that explicitly covers trekking and helicopter evacuation up to at least 5,500 m, and see a doctor before you travel about altitude and any medicines.
What to pack
- Four-season sleeping bag
- Broken-in boots and gaiters
- Down jacket, warm gloves and hat
- Category-4 sunglasses and high-factor sun cream
- Trekking poles
- Water purification tablets or a filter
- Satellite communicator or agreed emergency plan
- Cash for the whole trip from Nepalgunj or Kathmandu
Side trips and alternatives
Spend extra time at Ringmo for walks along the lake and to its Bon monastery.
Crystal Mountain pilgrim circuit
Walk the kora around Crystal Mountain from Shey Gompa, a long, high day.
Instead of returning to Juphal, continue east from Dho Tarap via Chharka over high passes to Jomsom.
Upper Dolpo questions
How much is the Upper Dolpo permit?
The Department of Immigration fee table read on 6 October 2026 lists USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per day after that, plus a Lower Dolpa permit and the national park fee. Confirm with a registered agency.
How long is the Upper Dolpo trek?
About 20 to 28 days including flights, depending on route, rest days and weather delays at Juphal.
Are there teahouses in Upper Dolpo?
Lodges exist as far as Phoksundo Lake. Beyond that it is a camping trek with a cook and porters.
What is the best time to trek Upper Dolpo?
May to October. The region lies in a rain shadow, so the monsoon months are possible, but flights to Juphal are often delayed.
How high does the Upper Dolpo trek go?
The Kang La is about 5,300-5,360 m depending on the source, and the Jeng La and Shey La are around 5,000 m.
Similar treks
A restricted-area trek north from Kagbeni through the eroded canyons of the former Kingdom of Lo to the walled town of Lo Manthang, returning via Lo Gekar and Dhakmar.
- Days
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- Maximum altitude
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- Difficulty
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A week-long walk in remote Karnali from Jumla through the Sinja valley to Rara Lake, Nepal's largest lake, at about 2,990 m in Rara National Park, usually ending with a flight from Talcha.
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Editorial draft: altitudes, permits and rules are being checked against the sources below. Last checked 2026-10-06. Sources: Wikipedia: Dolpo, Upper Dolpo route guide (TrekGuard), Dolpo to Jomsom itinerary (Explore Himalaya), Department of Immigration, Nepal: Trekking Route and Permit Fee, OpenStreetMap (village and camp coordinates), CDC Yellow Book: High-Elevation Travel and Altitude Illness
Upper Dolpo · 20 days